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Vancouver [mid-October]

Arriving in town I had a look through the place. The air was moist and the weather foggy, the streets wet and shining in the street lights. Reminded me a lot of a late afternoon in Kritiania [Oslo]. As it was soon bedtime, I looked for a hotel which looked inexpensive enough, then checked the time and who should I meet but an old friend, Johs W. Kahlen, who had crossed the Atlantic with me. Gets one to think that the world is not so small after all.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Dec. 9, 1924]

Vancouver is a good place to live. The city is big enough, is rather attractive in and of itself and has a lot of amenities. Stanley Park with it animal enclosure is the best I have seen of its kind. It is right on the ocean, just outside the main city. But it has its disadvantages, too. The worst this time of year is the fog and the rain. One can hardly see the sun the week through but then one is also spared the bitter cold that one meets in the rest of Canada.

As expected, there are problems finding jobs here in Vancouver. Around the Employment Office men by the hundreds looking for work. I finally met up with a man who offered me a job in the woods near Vancouver but in the meantime I met Verne so I let that opportunity go. About this Verne. From Kahlen I had gotten his address at the Scandinavian Bureau counter and went there to arrange for my mail to be forwarded. Rudolf Jules Verne is Swedish and had been in Canada over 15 years. It is seldom one meets such a nice, friendly man. He said that he had rented an old logging cabin on Hollyburn Ridge just outside of Vancouver and had plans to start a ski camp there for the winter. Fix up a couple of buildings, rent out skis and sell coffee and sandwiches. Would I be interested in that? I thought about it, what could suit me better? A companion who needs some help and friendly to boot. We found a good comrade in Hjalmar Fahlander, another Swede.

For a week we have been busy getting things ready. There has been a sawmill operation here before so there was lot of material to work with. We fixed up a little shack to live in for the winter, with double walls, floor and a roof, insulated with tar paper so it will be dry and warm. It is almost finished. Then we will fix up a bigger shack to be used as the “restaurant.”

From Vancouver one takes the ferry to West Vancouver, about a half hour trip, and from there one has to climb up the mountain. The camp is about four miles from W. Vancouver and at an altitude of some 1800 ft. {2500 ft.} so the climb is rather steep. All stuff must be carried up on your back: food, tools, building paper, cement. Even though the camp is close to Vancouver, it still borders on wilderness and there are no building out there. But there is no shortage of bears in the area. Some weeks ago five of them were shot. Shame on them! But there are none here.

It is costing something to start this new venture. True that we are both putting our last cent in this undertaking, however, I think there is hope that we will get it all back. That we will see in good time. Now it is just a question of pressing on so we can finish by Christmas. Here the snow has come, in Vancouver only rain and mist. Here is the way life should be. I am my own boss!!!

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Dec 22, 1924]

Time flies quickly. We have already moved into our little cabin, which is rather nice, tight as thermos flask. The fireplace and chimney have been made from fireproof stone, naturally it takes some time to heat things up. But once it first becomes warm, oh boy! We dry stuff in the afternoon and at the moment it’s warmer than the devil’s kitche

n! There has been no shortage of difficulties, but the “restaurant” is now as good as finished and we hope to have it going just after Christmas. But difficulties for us over inadequate time or snow is not a problem, only that there is absolutely no money. Our capital has not only sunk to zero but below zero! But a glorious Christmas we will have just the same. No doubt Jules Verne, Kaftein, and Hillstrom will show up. We have had great weather for a week now. A few days ago we had minus 15 degrees [C] and this cold they have not had for many years. Otherwise the temperature has been quite comfortable. Between five and ten degrees (C) and sun and blue skies every day!

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Christmas Eve, 1924]

Now it is Christmas Eve again. Time has gone quickly, yet it seems like a lifetime has gone by since last Christmas and now. Just as the sun sinking in red and gold beyond the mountains on the other side of the Fraser River. It is growing dark outside and the lamp has been lit so I actually see that Christmas Eve is here. I found a small spruce tree today with some difficulty. It now stands on the table in front of me. All is in order for the feast, just the guests and Christmas food is missing. But that will come. Fahlander went to town to get food and a lot of other things. Have waited all day for him along with his companions. Something must have delayed them, but still, they must come.

Now I hear a mouse in our “mouse safe” food cupboard. I shall try to capture it alive! That would be a fine Christmas present!

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [December 29, 1924]

Christmas was feted with revelry, Christmas porridge, bacon, coffee, cigars and good stuff, presents and mail, song and a lot of fun. Guests were Jules Verne, editor and skating king, also known as Ivanowitschi, Kaftein or Westeberg Ski King and numero uno, also called Hillstrom. Guests filled our room to overflowing!

Christmas has gone and the new year beckons and that cannot be denied The two inhabitants of Hollyburn Ski Camp are beat and all of that. Some snow came at Christmas. It is now beginning to melt and we are almost despairing . In the new year we must get started! Jules Verne wrote an item for the Vancouver newspapers about this place. How that will turn out, those who do not starve to death will find out!

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Jan. 11, 1925]

Now we are going! Now things are moving! For a long time it seemed hopeless. We have had five opening days that were a disaster. But today, Sunday the 11th of January,1925 we were surprised early in the morning as people streamed in more and more. The restaurant was not ready for such an onslaught but the skis-nine pairs, got used the whole day. Snow made the difference but the Canadians were the heroes.

They climbed up the hills, slid down with arms and legs flying, sat down on their seats, shouting and laughing!

As we said, we were not ready for this onslaught but we took in probably $8.00. Next Sunday should be better, given the excitement we had today. But this happened just in time. For a couple of weeks we have subsisted on some flour and oatmeal. We did have a rabbit steak. That was the result of my snare. We have shot some flying squirrels. They have unusually fine skins ; they now decorate the walls in our front room. But now to sleep after a good days work. LOTS OF FUN.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Jan. 28, 1925]

But on the Sunday after the rain came, at least it did in Vancouver and thus very few came up here. The $8.00 had to go a long way and it meant another couple of weeks on crusts and oatmeal porridge. It was too much, or too little for Mr. Fahlander . He has a case of scurvy. In fact, he has not been well lately. From stomach pain to headache, sore throat, and sleeplessness.

But hurrah! Now we see better days again. Last Sunday we had good weather. This time we had 12 pair skis, and the restaurant was ready for a large group - and they came. We had between 100 and 150 guests and we took in over 30 dollars. Last week we had some woodworkers up here. They used our big cabin and for that they left us their food after. Now we live in richness and overflowing opulence. Feasting on ham, pork, butter, and cheese!!.

Last Saturday there was big article in the Province with sketches of the ski camp and details of winter sports on Hollyburn Ridge. That is by no means poor advertising! Now we just have to have good weather for Sunday!!

Not too much happens during the week. Our days are taken up with some small jobs. Get wood, wash clothes, repair the used skis and so on. And in the afternoon we study our respective correspondence courses. We are also planning some longer trips in to the mountains. So far, nothing has come of that but it will in time.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [Feb. 12, 1925]

Some small changes have occurred. Ahlberg, a Swede, has joined the company. So now we are three. Business has been bad the past two Sundays - poor weather. But now something else has to be tried. The idea is to start with dances in the Rococco room [restaurant] every Saturday. In this way we can entice people to come up here whether it rains or not, and once we get them up they won’t get away without paying - you bet you! But then we must also get an orchestra. My two partners are in Vancouver to buy a gramophone without any money. That will be difficult but they might do it. Yesterday afternoon they were at Mary’s in West Van. Hope they have taken a cake or something like that . Now it will be exciting to see how this is going to go. I think the idea is a good one.

Since last Sunday the weather has been good. Monday we took a trip over to the lake but we have not gotten any further. Fahlander was lucky with some sharp shooting and got a rabbit. We had that for our dinner yesterday. Today we have the finest weather, bright sunshine. I think I will take a trip.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' {March 3, 1925}

Time goes by; it can’t be otherwise but that’s all right. The weather has not been so good but the business is still doing well. The gramophone does it job. The record for a weekend so far has been $60.00 and never under what we need to live on. I manage to put some aside as well so am satisfied.

The dances go full blast in the Rococco hall every Saturday. By one or two in the morning our guests are in their bunks and on the floors as we stay away. Poor souls - they look a bit bedraggled Sunday morning but they get value for their 40 cents and that is all right. Last Saturday I had a great moonlight boat trip with Ida, Lee, and Flo. Otherwise there have been few trips lately. Got another rabbit in the snare the other morning. Got myself some traps also so now it’s become dangerous here on the mountain! Nothing really of importance happens here for the time being. I can sense that spring is slowly on the way and some summer plans begin to take shape. They are numerous and rather grandiose but will have to see what transpires.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' [April 7, 1925]

Spring has arrived. The sun is warm and the snow is disappearing. Skiing is pretty well done for the year, at least around the camp here. There have been fewer people here lately and business has slumped. But we are not in need, rather the opposite, we live like knights. Easter comes at the end of this week and that will bring extra doings. Yes, next Sunday Captain Westeberg is off to the States, to San Francisco. We had a farewell party for him in the cabin last Saturday with rum and lot of good things! A huge party!!

My great plans for the summer have come to naught. The Banff job that I had banked so strongly on went to hell. Got a reply from them that they had no use for me. So much for that. It also looks like the job with the oil company in Vancouver has gone so I find that I rather like the place where I am and may as well stay. Selling „ cold drinks „ and such , that may get people to come here during the summer as well. Hope only that one of my dear “partners” gets a job so that there will only be two of us here for the summer. Took a trip up to Hollyburn Peak last week under sunny skies. Up there it is still 15-20 feet of snow and what a view!! I can’t really describe it but Vancouver has some exceptional vistas.

Ski Camp at the 'Old Mill' {May 14, 1925}

The middle of May already. Around the cabin everything is green. Full summer and baking warm during the day. But here above the ocean the now is still 6-8 feet deep.

Here we have made some changes. The hotel has been made bigger. A short time ago I went to the manager of the company with the result that we are now in complete charge. So we have fixed up the “Upper Cabin” with bunks so that we now have a sleeping room for about 20. There we have [a] place for all the men and the women can stay in the kitchen - place there for 12-15. My gramophone has arrived from Timiskaming and every Saturday there is a big dance in the restaurant. Last Saturday we had about 25 guests. But arrivals on Sundays have been fewer than ever. It is to getting too warm for people to come up to the place. As the skiing has come to a stop, our income has gone down to about $25.00 per weekend. It will no doubt go down even more in the warmest part of the summer. I think it is possible to continue to live up here. However, the lack of money and the wanderlust could induce me to leave this great life at least for a period of time. I say “great life” because it is hard to imagine any better place as far as day-to-day life goes. The weather is clear and warm, the sun is up by five in the mornings. When I poke my nose out the sleeping bag at seven, it a full daylight - no need to linger any longer. When one comes out on the verandah., stretches oneself and breathes in the fresh morning air, then one feels like a million!!

Perhaps one can hear the thrumming of a grouse in the valley. Then one takes the rifle, and on moccasin-clad feet, moves quietly forward to where the bird is sitting in the tree top. It is often a long shot but not so seldom it happens that the game falls to the ground.

Hollyburn Ski Camp [May 28, 1925]

Not much happens here. If one were to write of only great things, then nothing would be written. Have taken a lot trips lately, mainly to try fishing. Fishing luck has been poor. In fact, I haven’t had any luck at all. That is the biggest failure I have had here on my dear Hollyburn. That can’t continue, therefore I will see if I can get the government to plant some trout fingerlings in the lake above the plateau - will see how that will go.

Well, the trips were fun just the same. One trip along Cypress Creek was rather hard but another one to the Capilano River was worse. Was on the go from five in the morning ‘til dusk. And what awful terrain! It shifted from snow to swamp, and from the steepest cliffs to virtual jungle. Right in the middle of this rough area I found a little creek that was filled with loose stones. In several of these I saw glistening metal!! It turned out to be small flecks of iron pyrites. It [the mine] might be worth looking into once the snow goes.

Hollyburn Ski Camp [July 27, 1925]

Two months have gone by and in that time a lot should have happened. In one month we had work, real work for a logging company, “Lions Shingle Mills” who were cutting cedar on the east side if the ridge here. The shingle bolts were shipped down to a sawmill in West Vancouver through a flume. The flume needs water and that is what provided us with work. First we had to repair the dam up by the first lake. Thereafter the dam had to be opened and closed each evening. The after [After that] we repaired all the dams and dikes further along the plateau in order to move the water down to the first lake. When that was done, most of the snow had melted and the dikes were soon dry. The first lake never did get filled but the company was glad to give us the work so they could keep going 2-3 weeks longer than usual. After that there was repairs to the old flume which goes along the whole ridge from Cypress Creek to Shield’s camp. Eight men were put to work [including us] and everyone was in our camp. Ahlberg, who was the cook, was run off his feet trying to prepare enough food for all. After three weeks the job was done and Cypress Creek was almost dry! An inch of water moistened the flume a short distance down. And so the company had to quit for the summer because of a water shortage, after having spent 7 to 8 hundred dollars on an old flume!!

Our work was not very interesting; first we worked with a pick and spade, after we had to carry planks along the flume but what won’t a man do for fifty cents an hour?

That’s enough about the work. Lately we have had a number of good trips: the Peak, Mount Strahan, Cypress Lake. When one gets up high enough one finds a real Norwegian high mountain landscape. Short, scrub timber, and heather, and here and there snowflakes, and small ponds. And the view! To the south and west one looks over the ocean, beyond the horizon clad in blue, jagged mountains – that’s Vancouver Island. To the north the “Lions of Vancouver” rise up, two giant lions. And further to the north and east are the snow capped mountains, one after the other as far as the eyes can see.

The lost mine we have looked for in vain but in the dryer valleys we have found good signs of minerals. It looks mostly like copper or iron but what else might one find? The area around Cypress Lake and the debris from Mount Strachan seems to be the richest, so there we will go the next trip.

Now it is the height of summer, dry and warm. Since the middle of June we have had nice weather, blue skies nearly every day and if there is a rain shower now and then, it doesn’t last long. Hope it continues for a couple of months yet. The blueberries are ripe and there are a lot of them in the camp area. The bushes are as high as a man and the berries can get as large as grapes! These blueberries are good for picking. We do that and make blueberry pies by the dozen. The black bears move around here as well. Once in a while we meet one but they are neither fierce nor afraid, just nose about and go on as though nothing is happening.

Because of the dry weather we have had some forest fires in the area. The nearest one was up in the Capilano Valley. We were up in a camp on the plateau so we had an exceptional view of it. Great plumes of smoke rolled up from the valley into the air. There was the noise from trees breaking and the rocks cracking because of the heat . The fire moved up the mountain [on the other side of the valley] and flames shot up to the top of the 200 foot trees which became flaming torches. That was some scene to behold, especially at night.

Business has been dreadful. Very few people are coming up because of the heat, but thanks to our job with the logging company we are fine for the summer. The outlook for the winter is good so why complain? And I am not doing that either.

(Hollyburn Heritage Society's connection with Peggy Massey, daughter of Eilif Haxthow, goes back a number of years. Through Peggy, we have been able to share priceless photos and artwork created by her talented father. His "Hollyburn Journal" (translated by Jurgen Dahlie) provides details about life at the first commercial ski lodge operating on the North Shore mountains that are available nowhere else.)